Follow the Voyage: Through Japan’s Ryukyu Islands | Fukuoka to Keelung

With Expedition Leader Ben Ruzicka

5 October 2024 – 21 October 2024

Jump To: | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | Day 7 | Day 8 | Day 9 | Day 10 | Day 11 | Day 12 | Day 13 | Day 14

Day 2: Nagasaki, Japan

6 October 2024

This morning, we kicked off with a warm welcome, and after gathering for introductions, guests had the opportunity to choose between two unique experiences: a hike to explore the natural beauty of our surroundings or a deep dive into Japanese culture through calligraphy and a traditional tea ceremony. While not everyone could join their first choice, I assured guests that we would work to accommodate their preferences throughout the journey, and a few guests kindly offered to be flexible with their plans, which helped balance the groups perfectly. Afterwards, John delivered a fascinating lecture on Japan and Okinawan history, which set the stage for the day’s exploration. We then disembarked, with everyone equipped with their tram passes, some local currency, and a map of the city, making it easy to navigate their way through the day’s adventures. We had a special welcome ceremony upon arrival, including a school band performance, which added a lovely touch to our first moments ashore. Our day unfolded with a visit to the stunning Glover Gardens, where we were able to explore the scenic grounds. I worked with the guides to ensure that all guests could access the site, and we made adjustments for those with mobility needs so that everyone could enjoy the gardens fully. We continued on to Hanamachi Arcade for lunch, where guests had the chance to explore local dining options. In future, I’d recommend a bit more guidance on the best local spots, as this could elevate the culinary experience ashore for guests. After lunch, we visited the Peace Park, taking in its powerful monuments, including the striking blue Peace Statue. While time was tight, and the summer heat was felt by all, the significance of this stop was profound for many. We concluded our tour at the historical site of Dejima, a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s past. Despite the day being long and physically demanding, it was filled with meaningful experiences, and guests shared their appreciation for the day’s activities.

Day 3: Koshiki Islands, Japan

7 October 2024

This morning, we gathered to go over the day’s options, and despite heavy rain in the forecast, our intrepid hikers were undeterred and ready to take on the challenge. John completed his presentation from the previous day, and after a brief prep session, we set off for a cultural experience in the village of Sato. Upon arrival, we were greeted with a warm welcome, as locals waved us in with flags—a wonderful sight as we docked. After a quick screening, guests divided into two groups for their activities: calligraphy and the tea ceremony. As we made our way up to the lookout, the rain painted a dramatic backdrop, but just in time, the skies cleared, rewarding us with stunning views of the bay. In Sato village, we strolled through charming streets, learning from our knowledgeable guides. Our cultural activity was hosted in a traditional home with tatami mats, where guests were introduced to the art of calligraphy. With brushes, ink, and parchment in hand, they immersed themselves in this peaceful craft, making for a truly engaging experience. For lunch, beautifully prepared bento boxes arrived, featuring a delicious spread of sashimi, rice, fish soup, and beans. Guests raved about the meal, with some claiming it was the best bento they’d ever had. Special dietary requests were well accommodated, though we’ll take note of ensuring all sauces are gluten-free in future. Afterward, we said our goodbyes and returned to the ship to pick up our hikers. The hikers had a thrilling day of their own. After a scenic drive, they arrived at the trailhead, just as the rain let up. The hike itself was steep and rugged, but rewarding, with guests taking in a beautiful waterfall. Despite a few slips and muddy boots, the group made it through with smiles, and even found time for a quick swim at the beach afterward. A nearby museum offered additional exploration for those who wished to delve deeper into the local culture. Back on board, guests enjoyed a relaxing afternoon tea, followed by a fascinating lecture by John on the art of Japanese sword making. We closed the day with Captain’s drinks and a preview of the adventures awaiting us tomorrow and beyond. It was a full and enriching day, with guests diving deep into both the natural beauty and cultural heritage of Japan. Everyone is excited for what’s next!

Day 4: Kagoshima, Japan

8 October 2024

After breakfast, guests eagerly signed up for the Imperial Shrine tour, heading out to Kirishima, where the journey took us through scenic mountain roads and picturesque rice paddies. The guides, entertaining as always, shared fascinating insights, including the local Kagoshima specialty of chicken sashimi and the active volcano Sakura-jima, which frequently showers ash over the town. Upon arriving at the shrine, we learned about its deep history and marveled at the giant cedar trees, some of which are thousands of years old. While the shrine itself cannot be entered, its view is beautiful and easily accessible for all. Next, we made our way to the gorge, where a brief walk took us to a lovely waterfall. The surrounding area, dotted with small public foot baths, offered a peaceful retreat. It was a pleasant stop, though the schedule was tight. Back on board, I heard that the other group had a meaningful visit to the Peace Museum, followed by a stop at the Samurai Gardens, which guests found to be a highlight of the day. In the afternoon, we all headed out to Sengan-en Gardens. The peaceful atmosphere and the chance to explore the glassworks were a big hit with everyone. The original plan had included ending the day in town at Chuo Station for drinks, but after some discussion, we adjusted the schedule to ensure guests could return to the ship first. Those who wanted to enjoy an evening out could still head into town, with local guides on hand to assist. As we navigated these experiences, it was clear that coordination and communication were key to maintaining a smooth journey. In the future, we’ll continue refining our processes—ensuring every member of the team is on the same page, double-checking with guides, and staying focused in our planning. This trip is full of moments that bring Japan’s rich culture and landscapes to life, from peaceful gardens to historical landmarks. And with the support of our team, particularly Risa, who has been an invaluable asset in coordinating logistics and resolving challenges, we’re set for even more memorable experiences ahead. As we look forward, sign-ups for our cave diving in a few days are already underway, and we’re preparing for unique experiences like chopstick-making classes. Our journey continues to evolve, and each day is an opportunity for discovery and connection.

Day 5: Yakushima, Japan

9 October 2024

Due to recent damage to the Ravine Hike, we adjusted the plan and took all guests to Yakusugi Land, offering them the choice between a 50-minute or a 30-minute route. Upon arrival, we split the guests into two groups. I stationed an expedition team member at the turn-off for the shorter route to guide those who opted for it. While this worked well overall, we found that 25 guests per group was a bit too large for the trail. In the afternoon, we split the groups into three, using John as an additional guide, and offered a faster-paced, unguided option for those keen on setting their own pace. The walk itself was beautiful, featuring a series of wooden paths and stairs through the forest. The terrain was easy to moderate, though some of the elevated stairs could be a bit of a challenge. On the drive up, we were lucky enough to spot deer and monkeys, adding to the experience. The chopstick-making class was a big hit—everyone thoroughly enjoyed it. Between the morning and afternoon sessions, guests had time to explore the town, and we provided maps at the purser’s desk with suggested walking routes. Later in the evening, I gave a precap for the next day’s activities, and Maddy briefed everyone on the snorkeling and diving plans for Amami. Dinner followed, and afterward, we treated guests to a screening of the movie Spirited Away, which was a lovely way to wind down after a full day of exploration and activities.

Day 6: Sea Day

10 October 2024

We began our day with a serene circumnavigation of Suwanosejima Island. The calm seas and perfect visibility gave us spectacular views of the volcanic landscape, making for an unforgettable morning. Afterward, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast, setting the tone for the rest of the day. Later, the Chief Engineer gave an insightful engine room presentation, giving guests a behind-the-scenes look at the ship’s operations. Shortly after, Sandra followed with her own presentation, and we gathered everyone on the back deck for their snorkel fittings in preparation for tomorrow’s adventures. After lunch, we ran bridge and engine room tours, giving guests the chance to see more of the ship’s inner workings. Meanwhile, Risa hosted three calligraphy classes, giving guests a creative and cultural experience. Afternoon tea was followed by another fascinating presentation by Reed, sharing more about the region and its wonders. As the sun began to set, we gathered for a precap of tomorrow’s activities, followed by drinks on the Vista Deck at anchor, enjoying the peaceful surroundings. To end the day, we screened the documentary BBC – South Pacific, offering another beautiful glimpse into the natural world.

Day 7:  Amami Oshima, Japan

11 October 2024

We began the day with guests heading out for kayaking, diving, and some free time on the island. After adjusting our landing spot, everyone disembarked smoothly and set off on their adventures. Risa ensured everything was in place for the snorkel and dive groups, and the second explorer brought the snorkeling guests ashore. The walkers took a scenic bus ride to the Oshima Tsumugi kimono village, where we learned about the intricate dyeing and weaving techniques behind traditional kimonos. It was a fascinating experience, and the group appreciated the artistry involved. From there, we visited the Tanaka Isson museum, which was a hit with the guests, followed by a delicious bento lunch at Bashayama Seaside Restaurant. The nearby beach and gift shop offered a nice break before we continued our day. Snorkelers had a great time exploring the waters, with some saying they enjoyed the afternoon session even more. Kayaking in the bay was also a success, with the small group appreciating the peaceful setting and the chance to paddle in the calm waters. The day was filled with enriching experiences, and guests enjoyed the mix of cultural immersion and outdoor activities. Everyone had a chance to explore at their own pace, making it a memorable day for all. Overall, it was a good day, capped off with a BBQ upstairs in perfect weather. It’s always a highlight for everyone, and the evening didn’t disappoint. Allan hosted a lively games night, and the guests were in great spirits, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere and camaraderie. A great end to a memorable day.

Day 8: Okinoerabujima, Japan

12 October 2024

By mid-morning, the first group embarked on the Rim Stone cave tours, while two buses were ready for the East and West tours of the town. The East tour visited the school with the oldest Banyan tree, the Fucha blowhole, the Takachiho shrine, and Wanjo beach. The West tour explored Shoryudo Cave, Tamina Cape, and Okierabu Bashofu, where guests learned about banana leaf textiles. Both tours were well-received, with enthusiastic guides who spoke excellent English, which added to the experience. The cave tour was particularly appreciated, and the briefing helped ensure that only guests with good mobility participated, making it a smooth and enjoyable activity. When everyone returned to the ship, the locals put on a heartwarming farewell ceremony. The local children performed traditional dances and drum routines, and as we departed, we tossed streamers from the ship, which the kids caught from the shore—a fantastic way to say goodbye. Afterward, we held a short precap for tomorrow’s activities, including sign-ups for the river cruises and details about the upcoming tug-of-war festival, followed by dinner and a documentary screening. Overall, it was a great day, though I’d suggest trimming one location from each tour to give guests more time at each stop. Some guests, however, felt the pace was just right and wouldn’t change a thing. The highlights of the day were the school, Tamina Cape, and the Shoryudo shrine.

Day 9: Okinawa Motobu, Japan

13 October 2024

We started the day with breakfast and set up for a beach morning at Gorilla Chop. After lunch, we set off to Naha for the Tug of War Festival. About 20 guests chose not to join, but those who did seemed excited to experience the festivities. Upon arriving at Kokusai Dori Shopping Street, guests were given the freedom to explore on their own. Our expedition staff scattered in different directions, offering to guide people to nearby spots like the shopping streets, ATMs, toilets, and the festival itself. The guests truly enjoyed spreading out, taking in the festival atmosphere and soaking in the culture. The Tug of War was a highlight—it was thrilling to see the competition and camaraderie. Afterward, participants received pieces of the rope as a symbol of good luck, with the East side emerging victorious this year. Overall, it was a fantastic experience, and the guests were delighted with their day.

Day 10: Motobu & Nakijin, Japan

14 October 2024

We began the day with breakfast and a quick pre-cap of our activities, followed by Reed’s presentation, “An Okinawan Overview.” During this time, we also had a valuable debrief with Dr. Mike, reflecting on our experiences and discussing lessons learned. Guests departed for Nakijin Castle and Kouri Island, where the two buses to the castle had a wonderful time exploring. The bus heading to Kouri Island had Reed onboard, who prepared a mini-talk for the guests. Upon arrival, they were greeted by a charming shopping area, a lovely garden, and a bustling beach. I suggested a quick circumnavigation of the island, showcasing some of the love rocks mentioned in the TRD that the guests were eager to see. We passed the Kouri Ocean Tower, which could be a worthwhile stop in the future, as it offers stunning views and a shell museum. The nearby Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium is also a great option, complete with a museum of maritime anthropology. Feedback from guests indicated that they found the castle intriguing, and while they enjoyed Bise, there was a sense that Kouri Island could have offered a bit more.  The buffet lunch was a delightful experience, offering a variety of foods for our guests to sample. This flexibility is especially appreciated in foreign countries, where some may be hesitant to try unfamiliar dishes. In the afternoon, we concluded our explorations, sending one bus back to the ship for those who desired some free time. Everyone returned in good spirits, and Purser Manny hosted a fantastic wine tasting session afterward. His expertise truly adds a special touch. We wrapped up with dinner and a Ghibli film, which was a hit among guests. Some expressed interest in war films while in Okinawa and suggested titles like “Hacksaw Ridge,” “Letters from Iwo Jima,” and “Flags of Our Fathers” for future screenings. Overall, it was a delightful day, with the wine tasting serving as a wonderful way for guests to unwind and enjoy each other’s company after the previous days’ activities.

Day 11: Zamami, Japan

15 October 2024

We began the day with breakfast and a quick reconnaissance to connect with our local guide, explore the landing area, and gather maps of the village to distribute to our guests. After heading into port, we met with the local guide for an informative chat about the island and its attractions. Reed and I set off on an 8km loop of the island, taking in the breathtaking views from Kami no Hana Lookout before continuing on to Mt. Takatsuki. Meanwhile, Naomi and Allan organized a beach swim at Ama Beach, while Tanika led a group of walkers up Mt. Takatsuki, and Megumi and Sandra conducted a town tour with guests. The hike was enjoyable, and our guests appreciated the beautiful scenery. Feedback from Ama Beach indicated that it was quite shallow, with limited marine life to explore. There were some boundaries set by the local guide at the beach, which generated a bit of discussion among guests. However, the village tour was a hit, showcasing the charm of this little dive town, complete with plenty of amenities and quaint shops. We coordinated multiple pickups from the Xplorer, ensuring all hikers returned promptly. As we returned to the ship, we were greeted by rain, and lunch was served. The divers then headed back to town for a third-party dive experience with Maddy.  In the afternoon, the rest of the guests embarked on an exciting snorkeling adventure at Gahi. During lunch, we were informed that activities would be canceled in the event of lightning, a valuable insight for future planning. We arranged for the Xplorer to stand by as a rescue vessel, ensuring our guests had the necessary comfort with chairs, a gazebo, and plenty of hydration. Guests had a fantastic time spotting blueberry hermit crabs, turtles, and vibrant coral during their snorkel. Everyone returned to the ship in good spirits, and I led a quick recap of the day. A guest who had participated in the photography group at the tug of war festival shared some lovely photos, which everyone enjoyed. As the day wrapped up with dinner, we screened the documentary Chasing Coral. Guests expressed that this was a quintessential “Coral Expeditions” day, filled with memorable experiences and wonderful exploration.

Day 12: Kumejima, Japan

16 October 2024

After breakfast, guests departed for Ojima Island, enjoying a day filled with vibrant activities and cultural immersion. Upon arrival, the festivities began with traditional Bukubuku tea, music, dancing, and even costumes for guests to try on. A documentary showcased the island’s silk and textile craftsmanship, offering insight into the local culture. The visit to the turtle rehabilitation center was a highlight, with Sandra delivering an engaging talk about turtle conservation. For those seeking a more relaxed experience, a beach walk around the island was available, and some guests took the opportunity to explore the nearby town. There was even some interest in snorkeling under the bridge, which we noted as a potential future activity spot. Guests returned to the ship for lunch and enjoyed an afternoon filled with various activities. The chef held an informative Q&A, followed by a repeat calligraphy class for those who had missed it earlier. Sandra’s presentation on “Tropical Coral Reefs” was a captivating session that wrapped up the afternoon. The day concluded with dinner after Tanika’s precap, and although our original movie plan shifted due to availability, we screened “Midway” to the delight of our guests. The combination of cultural activities, relaxing beach time, and learning opportunities made for an enjoyable day.

Day 13: Miyakojoma, Japan

17 October 2024

After breakfast, we departed for a morning of exploration at the salt factory, followed by a visit to the cape and lighthouse. The salt factory opened shortly after our arrival, and while it was an interesting stop, the language barrier presented a challenge for some guests. Megumi and Risa assisted with translations to enhance the experience. Afterward, guests enjoyed a scenic stop at a lookout on the north island before continuing to the cape and lighthouse. Although the lighthouse was closed to entry, the views from the area were beautiful, making for a pleasant stop. Meanwhile, we ran a successful snorkel excursion with a third-party operator. Guests had an easy time accessing the water from the boats, spotting vibrant fish and large coral formations, which made for a delightful experience despite the hot weather. As we returned to the ship, many guests expressed interest in alternatives to the beach, especially given the cloudy weather. Responding quickly, Risa and Megumi coordinated a visit to the botanical gardens and a local textile and crafts house. After gauging guest interest, we arranged for buses and set out for the afternoon excursion. With a good turnout, we sent 38 guests to explore the gardens, while others enjoyed some free time in town or relaxed onboard. The day wrapped up with a lively performance in the BDL, where guests danced with local performers, embracing the festive atmosphere. Dinner followed, and we closed the evening with a documentary screening. It was a fulfilling day of varied activities, ensuring everyone found something to enjoy.

Day 14: Iriomote, Japan

18 October 2024

We started the day with river cruises, offering two groups a scenic experience before lunch. Risa hosted tea ceremonies in between the cruises, giving guests a chance to enjoy the cultural tradition firsthand. The afternoon also featured another river cruise option, and Reed later engaged the group with an informative talk. Dinner was followed by a documentary screening to wrap up the evening. To accommodate a request from the captain to secure a berth at Ishigaki, we made some adjustments to the schedule. Instead of running the last cruise with a hike, we offered a cruise-only option, ensuring all guests were back on board by 1600. Despite the heat, we also arranged ferries to Ida Beach in the morning for guests who weren’t on the river cruise. Megumi accompanied one guest on the ferry, allowing her to familiarize herself with the logistics, which was a valuable learning opportunity. Lunch required a bit of coordination since we had guests returning at different times. We carefully separated groups based on dietary needs to ensure everyone had a satisfying meal, with one group having lunch on board and the other taking prepared sandwiches. The afternoon hike was adventurous and challenging, especially due to wet and slippery conditions, but the group handled it well. We brought water and food for the hike, and although the guide wasn’t as knowledgeable as we had hoped, the natural beauty of the area made it a memorable experience. It was important to emphasize the difficulty of the walk, especially for those unaccustomed to the heat and terrain. Everyone returned safely, but it’s definitely a hike suited for strong walkers. We’re gearing up for another busy day tomorrow and making sure everything is in place for a smooth experience.

Day 15: Ishigaki, Japan

19 October 2024

This morning, our snorkelers and divers headed off for a day of exploration. We provided life jackets and pool noodles at the gangway, ensuring everyone was well-equipped before boarding buses to the port. The group split into three boats, with the divers heading to the manta point on the north of the island and the snorkelers exploring the coral reefs around Taketomi Island. The experience was incredible, with divers spotting five manta rays—a real highlight. Meanwhile, we also offered a shuttle service into town and a visit to Sazanami Beach Resort, though only two couples opted for the beach. Another group took part in an island bus tour to Mt. Banna Lookout, Kabira Bay, and Yaen Shuzo Distillery. The tour was well-received, with Reed providing commentary for one bus and the local guide leading the other. Guests had a great time soaking in the sights and learning about the local culture. In preparation for tomorrow’s activities, I coordinated ferry tickets to Taketomi Island. We offered an early morning bus for those interested and organized an afternoon visit as well. The guests enjoyed flexible options, choosing between a relaxing beach day or a guided village walk with return times available to suit their plans. In the evening, Tanika gave a quick precap of the next day’s events, and dinner featured a special entrée of Ishigaki beef. Afterward, guests settled in for a documentary screening, which provided a perfect way to wind down the day. Overall, the day was filled with exciting experiences both in the water and on land, and we’re looking forward to tomorrow’s adventures.