Voyage Log: Through the Heart of Japan | Tokyo to Fukuoka

With Expedition Leader Ben Ruzicka
21 September 2024 – 5 October 2024

Jump To: Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | Day 7 | Day 8 | Day 9 | Day 10 | Day 11 | Day 12 | Day 13 | Day 14

Day 1: Tokyo Port, Japan

21 September 2024

Today we awoke in Tokyo to prepare for the start of our Journey through the Heart of Japan. After embarking Coral Geographer, we enjoyed refreshments in the Bridge Deck Lounge prepared by Purser Manfred’s team and heard all about the upcoming activities over the next few days.  Everything was set for the start of the voyage, we were energized and excited for the adventure ahead! 

 

Day 2: Shimizu, Japan

22 September 2024

We started the day with breakfast at 7:30, followed by the completion of the welcome presentations from Expedition Leader Ben, along with sign-ups for Kyoto or Osaka. GL Reed gave his highly praised talk on “Japan, Old and New,” which gave an excellent introduction to Japanese history and culture.  We were soon greeted by the sight of Suruga Bay, though Mt Fuji remained elusive. We set off on our coaches where our Japanese guides shared some history of the area, culture, and even a brief Kanjii lesson, Our time ashore was split between visits to the Obuchi Saseba Green Plantation and the Fuji World Heritage Center (WHC).  At the plantation, guests had the chance to enjoy some tea and explore the grounds of the local guides, who explained how the leaves are grown and harvested as well as the different types of tea.  During our visit to the World Heritage Center, we immersed ourselves in the stories of Fujisan and the importance of this sacred mountain to Japanese culture. We were fortunate enough to catch a clear view of Mt. Fuji as the clouds lifted just in time for us to admire the mountain from the viewpoint. This was a special moment for the group and a highlight of the day.  Back on board Coral Geographer we enjoyed the Captain’s Welcome Drinks among our new friends against the backdrop of Mt. Fuji as we sailed out of the bay. Dinner followed at 6:30, with a documentary screening to close the day. 

 

Day 3: Shingu, Japan

23 September 2024

This morning started with another engaging presentation from GL Reed; “Japan and the West’’ followed by signup sheets for the next few days.  After an early lunch we split into groups for our exploration of the Kumano Kodo region; series of ancient pilgrimage routes and sites that crisscross the Kii Peninsula.  Adventurous travellers embarked on a hike through the forest up the cobbled Daimonzaka staircase to the famous Seiganto-Ji Pagoda.  Once at the top, our two Japanese agents led insightful interpretive talks, followed by free time to explore the area. We then made the descent to the base of Nachi Falls and were rewarded with an up-close view of Japan’s largest single-drop waterfall.  The other option for the day was to visit 2 of the most important shrines on the Kumano Kodo, Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. Our guides explained how pilgrims would (and still do) pass through these important sites during their pilgrimage . We also had time to visit the emerald-green waters Doro-kyo Gorge, which was created by powerful erosion from converging rivers throughout the millennia.  On our return to Coral Geographer, we were treated to a lively farewell performance by a local taiko drum group—a memorable send-off for the day. 

 

Day 4: Kyoto & Osaka, Japan

24 September 2024

Today was another exciting day as guests had the choice of exploring the modern city of Osaka and its amazing food markets, or delving deep into the historic capital of Kyoto.  The Kyoto groups were amazed by the gold-leaf pavilion at Kinkakuji Temple, and had time to explore the beautifully restored gardens and rooms at Nijo Castle. For lunch, we each had 2000Y to choose our own lunch – in the Nishiki Market which had all of the best Japanese snacks and dishes. The Osaka groups explored the 2nd largest city in Japan from top-to-toe (literally!). Many people’s highlight of the day was visiting the 42nd-level observation deck at the Umeda Sky Building which offered incredible views over the city. For lunch, we took our 2000Y of lunch money to the Dontonbori and Kuromon market district which was full of colours, sights and sounds even on a weekday.  After a very busy day, guests returned to Coral Geographer for a delicious dinner; and a few brave explorers ventured out to explore Kobe for the evening. 

 

Day 5: Tokushima, Japan

25 September 2024

After a hearty breakfast, we split into groups for our exploration of Tokushima, on the Eastern side of Shikoku island.   The first group left to view the natural phenomena of Naruto Whirlpools (which can flow up to 10 knots) and the incredible Otsuka Museum of Art (OMA). OMA is famous for its replicas of some of history’s greatest artworks (including a life-size reproduction of the Sistine Chapel artworks). Something guests did not expect to find in Japan! The excitement of the day flowed into our next visit to learn about Tokushima’s Awa Odori festival at the Awadori Kaikan. Guests even got to join the professionals for a dance! The visit was rapped up with a scenic trip up a gondola to the summit of Mt Bizan for views over Tokushima and the bay.  Tonight’s dinner on board Coral Geographer was complimented by a  30-minute dance party with local Awa performers between dinner and dessert – a brilliant end to a great day in Tokushima. 

 

Day 6: Shodoshima, Japan

26 September 2024

Breakfast commenced at 0700, and at 0800, the Explorers made their way to the jetty where the buses were ready and waiting. We were greeted by a delightful group of young school children, just five years old, performing a lovely welcome song that set a joyful tone for the day.  We then split into three groups and rotated through the experiences at the soy sauce distillery, the somen noodle school, and the Kankakei ropeway.  Guests returned on board for lunch at 1230, and at 1400, we headed back out to complete our final activity. Everyone loved the noodle-splitting experience and thoroughly enjoyed the Nagashi Somen activity, where we were gifted both somen noodles and soy sauce—a wonderful treat! The ropeway was a highlight as well, offering views of the island and the autumn leaves beginning to show.  By 1630, all guests were back on board the Geographer. At 1700, our three agents led an engaging origami class ahead of our visit to Hiroshima, which is famous for its paper crane memorial. 

 

Day 7: Miyajima & Hiroshima, Japan

27 September 2024

At 0730, we boarded the Explorers and departed for the revered island of Miyajima; said to be protected by the gods. On arrival we had the island mostly to ourselves, as the local ferry had not started. Our Japanese guides lead a tour  through the stunning Itsukushima Shrine, where guests marveled at the iconic Torii Gate. After the tour, guests enjoyed some free time to explore the area. We provided a printed map of the surroundings on the back of the newsletter and guests were then given some free time to appreciate the island with fewer crowds, making for a more intimate experience. Back on Coral Geographer at 1130, GL Reed delivered his engaging presentation titled “The Dark Valley,” which explored World War II in Japan. It was then time for lunch and to prepare for our excursion into Hiroshima’s Peace Park and Museum for the afternoon. As always, the Peace Park and Museum offers us a chance for reflection and recognition. The buses returned to the port at 1730, where guests relaxed with drinks on the vista We enjoyed dinner at 1830, followed by a screening of the movie The Wind Rises, rounding off a fantastic day of exploration and learning! 

 

Day 8: Matsuyama, Japan

28 September 2024

On arrival into Matsuyama, we were greeted warmly by a delightful performance from the local junior high school brass band, who played us into port. This provided a wonderful opportunity for guests to enjoy a few songs before we set off for Matsuyama Castle, one of the 12 original castles left in Japan.  The group transitioned seamlessly between those taking the ropeway and those opting for the scenic walk. The ropeway line moved efficiently, and walkers reached the top well ahead of the final ropeway group. At the top of the hill, we enjoyed spending time exploring the magnificent multi-tiered Matsuyama Castle and its stunning views.  Following our castle adventure, we enjoyed a perfectly timed visit to Dogo Shopping Street and Onsen. Guests who visited the onsen learnt all about Japanese bathhouse culture a fantastic experience, meanwhile others were enchanted by the automaton clock on the shopping street, which featured culturally themed figures emerging from a pagoda-style structure. Our return bus times allowed for a relaxed conclusion to the day’s activities.  Upon returning to the ship, Chief Engineer John delivered an engaging engineer presentation and conducted two engine room tours. While we encountered some challenges streaming the AFL Grand Final due to internet issues, we kept guests updated with the scores throughout the day. Purser Manny hosted a delightful wine tasting session, including some sake, and EL Ben followed with a quick pre-cap for tomorrow. Dinner was served, and later, we enjoyed the documentary The Kingdom of Dreams and Madness in the BDL, capping off a wonderful day of exploration and cultural immersion! 

Day 9: Karatsu, Japan

29 September 2024

Breakfast started the day on a positive note, followed by the next round of engaging engine room tours. GL Reed’s enlightening talk on “Nature and Society in Japan” set a thoughtful tone, leading into El Ben’s recap about tomorrow’s Mt. Shimizu hike, which generated excitement among those eager to sign up. After lunch, guests eagerly departed the gangway, boarding three buses: two heading to Kankyo Geijutsu No Mori Park and one to Karatsu Castle. The time allocated at the park was perfect, allowing everyone to enjoy the stunning scenery without feeling rushed after the bus trip. The steep walk up the path provided a rewarding experience, and guests appreciated the option to explore the beautiful grounds or capture photos in the charming pavilion. A small shop offered refreshments, adding to the relaxing atmosphere of this picturesque location. At Karatsu Castle, which was rebuilt in the 1960s, guests were treated to breathtaking views of the city. Our careful management of the group ensured a safe crossing over the busy road, aided by the bus drivers. For those needing assistance, an elevator was available, making access to the castle easier for everyone. Guests made their way up the stairs to the castle with ease, enjoying the beautiful surroundings and comfortable seating areas at the summit. Once back on board the ship, they were greeted with a delightful pop-up shop featuring free matcha tea tasting and souvenirs. We were thrilled to welcome GL John on board, and after a lively discussion during the bus ride, he graciously provided a brief introduction before my recap of the day. The evening was beautifully capped off with a local flute performance and fireworks, creating a magical atmosphere as guests enjoyed their dinner. It was a memorable day of exploration and cultural immersion, setting the stage for the exciting adventures awaiting us tomorrow in Aokata and Sasebo! 

Day 10: Tsushima, Japan

30 September 2024

Breakfast kicked off our day, followed by a quick talk where I shared some important updates about our clearance out of Japan, which required all guests to be on board. GL John’s presentation on Japan and Korean history captivated everyone, showcasing his expertise alongside Reed’s incredible speaking skills. After a recap of our upcoming adventures in Sasebo, we enjoyed a delightful lunch. Once we boarded the buses, we set off for Bansho-in Temple, where the serene beauty of the tombs left a lasting impression. One group embarked on a hike up Mt. Shimizu, tackling steep, uneven stairs and loose gravel under the guidance of a local expert. Those who reached the summit were rewarded with breathtaking views, while others appreciated the additional time spent at the zen temple. Upon our return, guests made their way through the dining room, and after passing customs, they ascended to the back deck for a relaxing afternoon tea. Chef Andy’s galley presentation was a highlight, and GL Ben also provided a recap for our exciting day in Jeju (South Korea) ahead.  Dinner followed, accompanied by a documentary titled Haeyeno: Wisdom of the Sea, creating a perfect conclusion to a fulfilling day. Our journey continues with much anticipation for what lies ahead in Jeju! 

 

Day 11: Jeju, South Korea

1 October 2024

We began the day with a seamless breakfast, followed by disembarkation and clearing customs. The process was smooth, much like an airport, with guests showing passports, completing baggage checks, and passing through metal detectors. Once finished, we hopped on the buses and headed into the village.  We had three buses arranged for the day, with guests who had dietary requirements on the third bus. The guide on board quickly realized that most guests had specific preferences rather than being strictly vegetarian, and she promptly adjusted the lunch orders to reflect this. Despite some initial uncertainty about the meal plan, we were pleasantly surprised to enjoy a delicious Korean BBQ lunch, which delighted everyone.  The day’s itinerary had us visiting both the village and Sunrise Peak. While all buses were initially planned to follow the same schedule, there was a slight variation with one bus heading to the beach instead of the hike. The hike itself was a fantastic experience, with around 600 steps leading up to stunning views. Guests who completed the climb were rewarded with breathtaking scenery, while those who opted out enjoyed more time at the village, making the day enjoyable for all.  After lunch, we rotated the groups through the activities again with group was lucky enough to see the local  Haenyo divers in action. The local Haenyo Divers museum offered excellent information on the process as well as some great displays on the process too.  The evening closed with a recap of the next day’s plans, followed by a documentary screening of Japan: Islands of Extremes to round off a successful day. 

 

Day 12: Sasebo, Japan

2 October 2024

We began the day with a fascinating presentation by GL John on the history of the Christians of the Goto Islands. Later, John shared more insights during his talk on ceramics in Japan, which was equally engaging. Afterward, we prepared for clearance back into Japan when we got to Sasebo.  As guests cleared customs, they were treated to a special welcome ceremony, complete with sake barrel smashing by the Ccptain, Chief Engineer, and Purser, followed by the exchange of plaques. It was a wonderful cultural touch that many guests appreciated, as these ceremonies had largely taken place behind the scenes throughout the trip.  We boarded the buses for our afternoon excursions, with one heading to the sake brewery and three others bound for Arita. For those on the Arita tour, we made a brief stop at a lookout, where despite the rain, the views were still worth the visit. Upon arrival at the Fukagawa-Seji Gallery, guests had the opportunity to meet the grandson of a famous potter, who gave a detailed talk on porcelain making, adding a personal touch to the experience.  The group also had time to visit Tozan Shrine, a peaceful spot with a stunning tori gate adorned with ceramics. The shrine area offered small cafes and stores, providing a relaxed environment for guests to explore. We spent about 90 minutes in Arita, giving everyone ample time to enjoy the local atmosphere, shop for souvenirs, and soak in the serene surroundings.  Back at port, we were welcomed by the beautiful music of two Koto players. Guests enjoyed the performance while browsing through stalls and sampling sake.   The group that visited the sake brewery had a fantastic time, discovering the secrets behind brewing and distilling the local variation. This particular brewery has been in operation since the 1787 so they have had plenty of time to perfect their craft!  In summary, another busy day but a  culturally rich and rewarding excursion for everyone. 

 

 

Day 13: Aokata, Japan

3 October 2024

After breakfast, we set out on buses to explore three key destinations: Tagatame Park and the Salt Factory, Narao Shrine, and Kashiragashima Church, with the option of a 1km sloped hike. The weather greeted us with overcast skies and showers, so we made some adjustments to the itinerary to ensure the hike remained safe and enjoyable for everyone. The walk was shortened, avoiding some of the steeper, potentially slippery areas. Guests who took part in the hike found it rewarding, even with the damp conditions.  At Kashiragashima Church, we arranged two local Japanese-speaking guides—one to guide guests through the church and another to lead the walk. We also had John and Reed assist by interpreting for guests, ensuring everyone could fully appreciate the historical and cultural significance of the site. John led the morning group, while Reed took over for the afternoon. Their insights were a valuable addition, enhancing the experience for many.  For those guests who remained on board, Reed delivered a presentation while a welcome ceremony in the BDL offered a special touch for others. Meanwhile, those heading out were greeted with pop-up stalls, a udon noodle store, and a welcoming party, which added a festive feel to the morning.  The day progressed smoothly, with the rain easing up by mid-morning, leaving us with warmer conditions. The stops were well-paced, with 30 minutes being plenty of time at Narao Shrine, and many guests enjoyed the chance to explore the small town in the afternoon.  We concluded the day with a pre-cap by Tanika, setting the stage for tomorrow’s adventures. Dinner followed, with guests looking forward to what’s next. The day was a wonderful blend of history, culture, and exploration. 

 

Day 14: Fukue, Japan

4 October 2024

Guests set off for Mt Onidake on a sunny, but breezy day following some swell overnight. Meanwhile, John came up with a spontaneous idea after the toolbox meeting: a visit to the Ishida Fukue Castle ruins, just a short walk from the ship. He had mentioned it to a few guests over dinner, and there was growing interest as they made their way to breakfast. John was eager to lead the walk, so after confirming with Hide, we made it official. An announcement was made, a sign-up sheet and maps were prepared, and within minutes, 40 guests had joined for the impromptu walking tour. The main group boarded the buses to head to Mt Onidake, with some uncertainty about ramp access to the lookout. We informed guests there could be stairs, but upon arrival, we found there was indeed a steep ramp, and everyone managed the ascent at their own pace without any issues. The hike around the hill was enjoyable, despite the wind, and those who opted to visit the kite-flying area had a fantastic time. Four kites were set up, with local guides offering guests the chance to fly them—a fun and interactive way to experience the day. Guests left with smiles, having enjoyed the blend of exploration and hands-on activity for our last day together.