Voyage Log: The Kimberley Cruise | Darwin to Broome
Darwin to Broome | 29 April 2023 – 9 May 2023
Jump To: Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | Day 7 | Day 8 | Day 9 | Day 10
Day 1: Departing Darwin
29 April 2023
After traveling from various locations, we were warmly greeted by the friendly Coral Expedition staff at Darwin’s Doubletree Hotel at an early hour. There, we had our bags tagged, underwent a Rapid Antigen Test, and then boarded the buses, heading to the wharf for our first glimpse of the Coral Geographer, our home for the next 10 days. Captain JB welcomed us at the top of the gangway and escorted us to the dining room, where we completed the remaining paperwork before settling into our cabins. The muster alarm signaled our assembly in the Bridge Deck Lounge, where the purser, Aaron, explained the emergency evacuation procedures and had us all don life jackets (PFDs), conducting a roll call. Dawn, the Expedition Leader, introduced the Expedition crew, including Amber and Mel, along with Guest Lecturers Terry and Mike. She provided an overview of the trip and informed us about an optional helicopter flight to the Mitchell Falls later in the trip. After lunch, as we cruised across the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf, we had opportunities to tour the engine room and enjoyed a presentation by Guest Lecturer Mike, who introduced us to the Kimberley. Captain’s drinks were announced, and we gathered in the lounge and on the bridge deck aft, enjoying pre-dinner drinks and canapes. Captain JB formally welcomed us, and Dawn outlined her plans for the following day. After a delightful dinner at the end of a long day, we retired to our cabins for a well-deserved rest.
Day 2: King George River
30 April 2023
We awoke to a pale sunrise as Coral Geographer continued our journey across the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf towards our first anchorage at Koolama Bay. After an 8 am breakfast, we boarded the Xplorers. The early maritime explorers of the area had failed to see the mouth of the King George River in the early 1800s, the river being discovered by a land party in 1911. We heard the story of the bombing, beaching, and repair of the coastal ship, the Koolama, after which the bay was named. The Xplorers carried us up the river to the majestic King George River Canyon to our destination, King George Falls, the first Xplorer zooming up there fast, the second taking in the sights at a more leisurely pace. The twin falls were flowing strongly, this day being not too long after what had been a good wet season in the Kimberley. We transferred to the Zodiacs to get up close to the falls for an exhilarating ‘shower’. On our way along the river, we stopped several times to hear about the geology and to look at some beautiful ‘honeycomb’ waterline erosion. One of the Xplorers was rewarded with seeing a dugong and a couple of snub-finned dolphins.
Day 3: Vansittart Bay
1 May 2023
Upon arriving at Vansittart Bay in the morning, we explored Anjo Peninsula’s eastern shore after breakfast. We discovered a well-preserved C53 military aircraft, which had made a forced landing in 1942 due to fuel exhaustion. We also learned about the daring rescue by a Qantas Short Empire flying boat named Corinthian.
After our visit, some of us prepared for an upcoming helicopter flight to Mitchell Falls. Following lunch, we enjoyed a cruise past a Paspaley pearl farm near Jar Island. Onshore, we explored Aboriginal rock art sites with Amber, Michael, Mel, and Terry as our guides. The art included life-sized fish, an echidna, and ancient depictions of people in various Gwion styles, some over 17,000 years old.
Back on board, Purser Aaron hosted a wine tasting, followed by Terry’s recap of the day and Dawn’s preview of the next. We concluded the day with a delightful dinner and a screening of the documentary ‘From the Heart of the Kimberley’ for those interested.
Day 4: Mitchell Falls
2 May 2023
After an early breakfast, the first group headed to Winyalkan Island’s beach for a breathtaking helicopter ride to the Mitchell Falls. The flight provided spectacular views of the falls from above. Meanwhile, those who didn’t take the helicopter tour embarked on one of the Xplorers for a coastal exploration. One group was swiftly transported across Wollaston Bay, landing on a small mainland beach. The adventurous among them climbed over rocks to visit an impressive rock art gallery featuring a striking painting of a Tasmanian Tiger. This painting offered evidence of the Tasmanian Tiger’s presence on the Australian mainland before the arrival of the Dingo. The gallery also featured depictions of Wandjina figures and native yams.
The other Xplorer group explored the nearby bays and observed volcanic dolerite rock intrusions into the host sandstone. They also passed by Palm Island, noted for its flourishing Livistona palms, which thrive there due to the absence of palm-seed-eating rats that are abundant on the adjacent mainland. After a satisfying lunch, those who had taken the morning helicopter flight had the opportunity to join one of the morning’s exploration activities. On their return journey, they visited a secluded beach adorned with a collection of corals and shells, thoughtfully arranged by past visitors over the years.
To wrap up the day, the after-dinner entertainment was the humorous film ‘Top End Wedding.’ What an eventful day it had been!
Day 5: Bigge Island
3 May 2023
We anchored in Wary Bay, Bigge Island before dawn. After an early breakfast, we explored the Cathedral Cave during low tide. Then, we landed on Wary Bay Beach, observing turtle and crocodile tracks. At the beach, we encountered the Kiara figure (Sea Wandjina) and various contact art depicting European sailors and their ships. Some of us ventured to an escarpment to view a ceremonial ground and burial ring, spotting tracks and scats of monjons, a type of rock wallaby. Onboard, Terry presented ‘Kimberley coast: behind the scenery’ during lunch as we sailed south to Bat Island. We had drinks ashore while enjoying the sunset. Later, we watched a BBC documentary about the Kimberley coast.
Day 6: Prince Frederick Harbour
4 May 2023
After an early breakfast, we embarked on the Xplorers to witness the sunrise in the Hunter River, followed by an exploration of the mudflats in Porosus Creek during low tide. The towering orange sandstone bluffs provided a stunning backdrop to the mangroves. During our adventure, we spotted mudskippers, Collared and Azure Kingfishers, a Torresian Imperial Pigeon, Brahminy Kites, and an Eastern Reef Egret. We also sighted a couple of crocodiles. Many of us took the opportunity to explore narrow inlets in the zodiacs. Later, we returned to the ship for morning tea and enjoyed Mike’s presentation about Phillip Parker King, ‘King of the Kimberley Coast,’ before having an early lunch.
In the afternoon, we boarded the Xplorers for a cruise to Thor’s Hammer. One of the Xplorers made a stop to observe a pair of Ospreys near their stick nest on a sandstone peninsula. Thor’s Hammer is a large sandstone block atop a crystal-studded ‘handle,’ formed by superheated water due to localized faulting and the submarine intrusion of dolerite into the sandstone strata around 1.76 billion years ago. As the tide fell, we ventured to the edge of a mangrove forest, where a Brahminy Kite soared overhead, and a large crocodile disappeared beneath the surface as we approached. After returning, we had time for a shower and a brief rest before Mike provided a recap of the day’s activities. We then enjoyed a fantastic Aussie barbecue on the Vista Deck, followed by a lively game of Scattegories hosted by Mel and Amber in the Bridge Deck Lounge.
Day 7: Careening Bay and Prince Regent River
5 May 2023
We disembarked at Careening Bay, a historically significant site associated with Phillip Parker King’s maritime exploration. Here, we marveled at a massive old boab tree inscribed with the words ‘H.M.C. Mermaid 1820’ by King’s crew during their ship’s careening process. The ship repairs took several weeks, but unfortunately, the ship continued to leak as badly as it did before. Nevertheless, this stop provided King’s naturalist, Alan Cunningham, with the opportunity to botanize and make scientific observations around the bay. Many plant species were collected, described, and named from specimens collected here, making this area the “type locality” for these species. The frilled (frill-necked) lizard (Chlamidosaurus kingii) was also described from a specimen collected here, named in honor of King. Some of us explored a small creek bed and visited ancient-looking Cycads, while others explored the water’s edge before returning to the ship on the Xplorer.
Later in the morning, we arrived in St. George Basin and embarked on a 3½ hour excursion on the Xplorers to the Prince Regent River, specifically King Cascade. We were treated to the breathtaking sight of water flowing down near-vertical sandstone ledges. We learned about King’s two visits to this picturesque place in 1820-21 to explore the river and collect water. We also heard the tragic tale of Ginger Fay Meadows, who was taken by a crocodile here in 1987. However, any somber mood quickly dissipated as we lined up and walked onto the Xplorer’s ramp to experience the refreshing spray beneath the falls. On our way back to the Coral Geographer, passengers on one Xplorer had a brief sighting of a pair of rare Snub-Finned dolphins, while those on the other enjoyed a cruise into a mangrove-lined inlet where we spotted Rainbow Bee-eaters and some Little Egrets. For those seeking activity, tonight’s movie was ‘Into the Wild.’
Day 8: Montgomery Reef
6 May 2023
Early in the morning, with Coral Geographer anchored near Montgomery Reef, the drivers quickly guided us on the Xplorers up the channel to the heart of this massive and truly unique system. What initially appeared as a drab rocky terrace was, in fact, largely composed of living coralline algae. Behind this reef rim lay a shallow lagoon extending about 20 kilometers. This giant reservoir continues to drain through countless cascades over the reef edge whenever the falling tide lowers sea level below its rim. From the Xplorers and accompanying Zodiacs, we spotted many Eastern Reef Egrets, two varieties of terns, and a few sea turtles. Thanks to the favorable tides today, we were delighted to witness how much the reef was exposed and enjoyed the spectacular cascades running off the reef. By 9 am, we returned to the ship in time for morning tea, a video presentation on ‘The Vanishing Tribe of High Cliffy Islanders,’ and a fascinating talk by Mike titled ‘Sharks and Rays of the Kimberley Coast.’
Later, we traveled across Doubtful Bay before anchoring in Red Cone Creek, surrounded by a vast mangrove community. Both groups ventured in the Xplorers through the mangroves to reach Ruby Falls, a stunning waterfall cascading into a large waterhole below. Some of us climbed up the cliff above the waterfall and crossed a rock platform to reach a beautiful billabong, where we enjoyed a refreshing swim. Those who didn’t climb slowly explored the inlets into the mangrove forest, spotting four or five crocodiles and a family of Little Pied Cormorants while making their way back to the ship. The high tide and hidden rocks presented a challenging landing at Ruby Falls, which was skillfully executed by Xplorer drivers Merinda and Yushi.
Day 9: Talbot Bay
7 May 2023
Soon after breakfast, we made our way to the head of the bay, detouring into the calm, but soon-to-become turbulent waters of the Horizontal Waterfalls. There, looking through the gaps, we could see the area’s geological transformation, from flat strata of sandstone and volcanic rocks to the mighty distorted landscape before us. Then it was up into the fabulous Talbot Creek – a veritable rock lover’s paradise where the rocks really got their time in the sun. Enormous ramparts of sandstone rose into the sky, twisted and folded over time immemorial. It being relatively early in the year, these hills were also clad in thick verdant vegetation, adding to the spectacle. Adding further to the morning, we also got a great close-up look at a young White-Bellied Sea Eagle who seemed just as curious about us as we were about her. We spotted a couple of crocodiles, but rock wallabies eluded us! After an early lunch, everyone had the chance to ride the famous Horizontal Waterfalls. We boarded Zodiacs from the ship’s lower deck and were carried into the midst of about 40 million years of geology, the appreciation of which, admittedly, took second place to just pure unadulterated fun; messing about in boats! At four o’clock, we were treated to Captain JB’s double barrel presentations ‘History of Navigation’ and ‘The Coral Geographer Bridge’ before re-gathering for pre-dinner drinks, today’s recap, and tomorrow’s pre-cap. Tonight’s movie was ‘First Australians: The Untold Story of Australia.’
Day 10: Nares Point
8 May 2023
Soon after breakfast, we made our way to the head of the bay, detouring into the calm, but soon-to-become turbulent waters of the Horizontal Waterfalls. There, looking through the gaps, we could see the area’s geological transformation, from flat strata of sandstone and volcanic rocks to the mighty distorted landscape before us. Then it was up into the fabulous Talbot Creek – a veritable rock lover’s paradise where the rocks really got their time in the sun. Enormous ramparts of sandstone rose into the sky, twisted and folded over time immemorial. It being relatively early in the year, these hills were also clad in thick verdant vegetation, adding to the spectacle. Adding further to the morning, we also got a great close-up look at a young White-Bellied Sea Eagle who seemed just as curious about us as we were about her. We spotted a couple of crocodiles, but rock wallabies eluded us! After an early lunch, everyone had the chance to ride the famous Horizontal Waterfalls. We boarded Zodiacs from the ship’s lower deck and were carried into the midst of about 40 million years of geology, the appreciation of which, admittedly, took second place to just pure unadulterated fun; messing about in boats! At four o’clock, we were treated to Captain JB’s double barrel presentations ‘History of Navigation’ and ‘The Coral Geographer Bridge’ before re-gathering for pre-dinner drinks, today’s recap, and tomorrow’s pre-cap. Tonight’s movie was ‘First Australians: The Untold Story of Australia.’