Voyage Log: Journey to Japan | Yap to Tokyo

With Expedition Leader Dawn Singleton

6 September 2024 – 20 September 2024

Jump To: Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 |  Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | Day 7 | Day 8 | Day 9 | Day 10 | Day 11 | Day 12 |Day 13 |Day 14 |

Day 1: Yap, Federated States of Micronesia

6 September 2024

Our adventure kicked off smoothly today with guests arriving on time—and even a bit early—on the charter flight. After boarding, everyone settled in as we departed, ready to explore the journey ahead. We held the muster drill to ensure safety protocols were understood, followed by the Expedition Leader briefing and introductions to set the stage for the voyage. The day wrapped up with a delicious dinner, providing a great start to our time at sea. We’re off to a fantastic beginning!

Day 2: Ngulu Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia

7 September 2024

We arrived at the stunning Ngulu Atoll bright and early at 07:00. Without delay, we launched a zodiac with Thomas, Jacob, and myself on board to meet the caretakers ashore and confirm the day’s plans. After a warm welcome and some refreshing green coconuts, we set off on a reconnaissance mission to scout out the best spots for our morning’s water-based activities. Exploring the northern end of the east island atoll, we found several promising sites, ultimately selecting a fantastic location that catered beautifully to both snorkelers and divers. In the right weather, this entire area shows great potential as a premier snorkel site, and we even discovered some intriguing bommies to the south worth exploring further.

The snorkelling was simply stunning with crystal-clear 30-meter visibility and a vibrant, healthy fringing reef teeming with marine life. Highlights included the graceful presence of an eagle ray gliding through the waters. With conditions being almost perfect, even our novice snorkelers had their first lesson with Chrissy before confidently setting off on their own—a significant milestone for many.

After a delightful morning, we returned to the ship for lunch and a brief turnaround before our afternoon island visit. The group traveled to the island using a combination of explorers and zodiacs, with transfers completed swiftly and safely in just 10 minutes—a great perk of having a smaller group. Once ashore, we were warmly greeted by the caretakers, who casually guided us through the village. Our guests enjoyed exploring the island’s paths, marveling at the abundant birdlife, including elegant tropic birds and numerous noddys.

The island offered a unique glimpse into a sustainable and subsistence lifestyle, with crops like sweet potatoes, breadfruit, bananas, betel nut, pepper, and cassava flourishing around the village. We observed fish and other meats drying, alongside coconut husks and other natural materials being repurposed for various uses. One of the most striking features was the creative use of sea debris; parachutes provided shade, while aluminum from wrecked sea and aircraft had been ingeniously fashioned into seating.

Choosing Ngulu over Sorol proved to be an excellent decision, offering a truly raw and authentic experience that connected us deeply with the island’s charm. If conditions had allowed, visiting all three atolls would have been ideal, but Ngulu’s unique appeal made it the standout stop.

Back on board, we wrapped up the day with a briefing from GL Mike on fish identification, followed by my own brief, which included a special thank you to Thomas. Ian then captivated us with a full talk on protecting paradise and conservation efforts in the northwest Pacific. We ended the evening with Captain’s drinks and an engaging post-dinner documentary, Amazing Quest: Stories from the Pacific. It was a day brimming with exploration, discovery, and connection!

Day 3: Ulithi Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia

8 September 2024

We started the day by bringing the captain and agent ashore to meet the chief, ready to begin our island exploration. A slight delay ensued when the chief informed us that the village was still in church, but with our small group, everything proceeded smoothly and without any rush. Once ready, we used the zodiacs again for guest transfers—this approach worked perfectly with the low tide and smaller numbers, allowing for an efficient and comfortable shore arrival.

The chief warmly welcomed our guests, and after presenting our donations, we split into two groups to explore the island. While the guests wandered the village with the GLs, the rest of the expedition team went on a reconnaissance mission to find a better spot for our afternoon water activities, as the initial site wasn’t ideal for both snorkeling and diving.

The afternoon was a highlight as we set out for water activities in calm conditions. We journeyed about 5 nautical miles to the mid-west rim of the atoll, discovering a site where the coral growth and diversity were among the best I’ve seen in two years. Massive bommies, sectioned by swim-throughs, provided an incredible experience for both divers and snorkelers. Visibility was a stunning 40 meters off the wall, making for an epic underwater adventure, even though fish life was sparse. The conditions were glassy despite some passing rain squalls, adding to the serene beauty of the dive. As an added bonus, we used the last few minutes to approach a massive rusted steel shipwreck, either run aground or washed up by a storm—a spectacular photo opportunity and a delightful surprise to cap off the underwater exploration.

It’s truly a shame we have to cut the final day in Micronesia due to the incoming typhoon system; this place is nothing short of incredible, and the waters here will be sorely missed.

Back on board, we held a briefing for the next day’s activities. Guests were invited to sign their names on papers that will be sealed in a tube and deployed into the sea at the Mariana Trench tomorrow morning, stirring up excitement for this unique event. The weather is looking favorable, and everyone is eager for the planned mid-ocean swim.

We wrapped up the day with pre-dinner drinks, a lovely meal, and a screening of Bohemian Rhapsody, rounding out another fantastic day on this remarkable voyage.

Day 4: Mariana’s Trench – Challenger Deep, Federated States of Micronesia

9 September 2024

Our day began with an early morning buzz as we prepared for one of the most anticipated events of the voyage. The seas were calm, the skies clear, and spirits high as we readied ourselves for a truly unique experience—launching a sealed tube filled with guest signatures into the depths of the Mariana Trench.

After a quick breakfast, we gathered on deck to make our way to the deployment site. The energy was electric as each guest added their name to the historic tube, symbolizing our collective adventure and connection to the vast ocean. As we reached the spot, the tube was ceremoniously released into the water, disappearing into the blue abyss. It was a powerful moment of reflection and celebration, marking our voyage’s journey through one of the deepest parts of the ocean.

With the deployment complete, we set up for the mid-ocean swim—a highlight many had been eagerly awaiting. The conditions couldn’t have been better, with the sun shining brightly and the water a perfect turquoise. Guests took the plunge, floating effortlessly in the vast expanse of the Pacific, a rare and exhilarating experience that only a few can say they’ve done.

After the swim, we returned onboard for a relaxing lunch and some downtime as we sailed on. In the afternoon, we convened for another briefing, this time focused on the fascinating marine life we might encounter as we continued our journey. The atmosphere was filled with a mix of awe and anticipation for what lay ahead.

As the day wound down, we enjoyed Captain’s drinks on the deck, followed by a delicious dinner. To cap off the evening, we screened Bohemian Rhapsody under the stars, bringing everyone together for a joyful and communal end to the day.

While it’s disappointing that we must adjust our itinerary due to the approaching typhoon, today’s experiences underscored the resilience and wonder of the ocean and our voyage. Each day continues to offer incredible moments, making this journey one to remember.

Day 5: At Sea

10 September 2024

Today was a fantastic sea day filled with engaging activities and insightful talks as we cruised through the Pacific. The day started off with some gentle movement as Chrissy led a stretching session at 07:00, perfectly setting the tone for a day at sea. Afterward, guests enjoyed a hearty breakfast at 08:00, fueling up for the activities ahead.

Our morning kicked off with a captivating talk by Mike on the sharks and rays of the Pacific. He dove deep into the fascinating world of these majestic creatures, sharing insights into their behaviors and importance to the ocean ecosystem.

Following Mike’s talk, we conducted a fire and abandon ship drill, ensuring everyone was well-prepared and confident with safety protocols. Then, it was my turn to lead the daily briefing and kick off an exciting treasure hunt challenge. Guests raced around the ship, hunting for clues in the art displayed onboard. The competition was fierce, with everyone eager to complete their sheets in the fastest time with the most correct answers. The winning duo took home cocktail vouchers—a fun reward for their quick thinking and sharp eyes!

The afternoon offered a rare behind-the-scenes experience with an engine room tour, giving guests a closer look at the heart of the ship and how we navigate the vast ocean. Following this, Reed captivated us with his talk on Japan: Old and New, taking us on a journey through Japan’s rich history, from ancient traditions to its vibrant modern culture.

As the sun dipped lower, the expedition team hosted a lively pub quiz trivia session—a crowd favorite and a perfect way to wrap up the day’s activities. Friendly competition and laughter filled the room, making it a memorable end to our sea day.

In the evening, we gathered once more for the screening of The Deepest Place on Earth, a documentary exploring the mysterious Mariana Trench. It was a fitting end to our day, tying in beautifully with our recent mid-ocean adventures and celebrating the wonders of the ocean depths.

Today was a testament to the camaraderie and curiosity of our guests, making the most of every moment onboard. As we continue our journey, the excitement for what’s next is only growing stronger!

Day 6: At Sea

12 September 2024

After a delightful breakfast, we gathered our guests in the Bridge Deck Lounge for an engaging session on Coral Expeditions’ future voyages. With ample time at our disposal, we opened the floor to a broad discussion about our trips, sharing interesting stories from my own travels. It turned into a truly enjoyable chat with everyone involved.

Following the talk, one of our guests approached me with some kind words, mentioning that Coral Expeditions is now their absolute favorite expedition company, a high accolade given their extensive experience with numerous operators.

Later, we had a lecture on Japan’s maritime frontiers, which was well received by the guests. The afternoon featured a Bridge tour followed by a new game we’ve been trialing called “Match the Head to the Tale.” Guests anonymously submitted stories into a bowl, and then we had some fun trying to match each story to its author. It was a great way for everyone to share a bit of their life experiences.

We then moved on to a wine appreciation session and the session went very well.

The weather has been quite manageable, and the Captain has been providing informative ship updates over lunch via the PA system. To cap off the evening, we screened “In the Heart of the Sea,” rounding out a fulfilling day on board.

Day 7: At Sea

12 September 2024

Once again, we experienced manageable conditions at sea, with the occasional rain squall passing through. We kicked off the day with a yoga session led by Chrissy before breakfast. Over the past few days, we’ve had some interesting ocean-going birds following us—both masked boobies and red-footed boobies, along with a few storm petrels. One of our guests, Belinda, captured a fantastic series of photos this morning showing two of the boobies using the ship’s wake to hunt flying fish. Before my morning talk, we displayed the photos, and Belinda did a wonderful job sharing insights she had gathered from her research with Ian and Reed.

During my talk, I provided an overview of the remainder of our voyage, including the news that we’ll need to omit Miyakejima due to weather conditions and the lack of safe berthage. However, the guests were pleased to hear that Iwo Jima remains on the itinerary, and they were excited to learn we’ll now spend two full days in Yokohama.

The morning also featured a fascinating lecture by Mike on the colorful bottom dwellers of the sea. After lunch, we offered more activities, including Ian’s poignant talk on Iwo Jima, which was accompanied by afternoon tea in the Bridge Deck Lounge.

Later in the day, Chrissy and Jake hosted another art session where they continued adding stories to their concertina-style art project, which has really captured everyone’s attention. This creative activity took us right through to pre-dinner drinks.

After dinner, we settled in for a screening of Clint Eastwood’s film Flags of Our Fathers, rounding off a meaningful and reflective day at sea.

Day 8: At Sea

13 September 2024

Despite encountering the highest sea state of the trip so far, the bridge team did an excellent job keeping us on course as we completed a circumnavigation of Iwo Jima just after breakfast. They brought the ship in close along the coast near Mount Suribachi, where both Ian and Reed gave impromptu talks on the poignant history of Iwo Jima as we passed slowly by.

We opened Deck 6 for this, and guests spread out—some choosing to stay inside the Bridge Deck Lounge, while others ventured outside to take in the views. The strong winds and beam-on seas made the turn around the island quite exhilarating, but the Guest Lecturers handled it perfectly. The mood was reflective as we passed the island, considering the history and loss of life. Along the western coast, we spotted the remains of ships washed up on the volcanic shore, as well as steam vents from the island’s active geothermal activity. After more than an hour, we passed the northwest coast and resumed our northern course.

The day continued with a talk by Mike on the whales of Japan, which also touched on the country’s whaling industry. After lunch, as we continued our northern journey, our head chef Andy hosted a Q&A session in the Bridge Deck Lounge about ship provisioning—a fascinating look into the logistics behind our onboard meals.

In the afternoon, we transformed the lounge into a cozy cinema for a movie session. We blacked out the windows, set up a popcorn and ice cream station, and handed out blankets for everyone to settle in and watch Letters from Iwo Jima. It was a perfect way to spend the afternoon, especially with the weather outside.

Later in the evening, we played a documentary on Honshu, Japan, bringing a reflective and engaging close to the day.

Day 9: Nishnoshima, Japan

14 September 2024

Thankfully, we were able to update the guests yesterday on the ship’s progress, and I’m pleased to say that we managed to reach Nishinoshima at first light this morning. Just a day earlier, the bridge team had informed me that it might not be possible, and I had to break the news to the guests. But Capt. Conners and the bridge team pulled off some magic once again! Nearly all the guests were up at 0600 to witness the close passing of the massive volcano, where we could see sulfur deposits and steam rising from the huge crater. The GLs were also out on the foredeck, soaking in the incredible views, which really rounded out the experience. The ship then continued north, and fortunately, we sailed in much-improved seas.

We started the day with a morning stretching session led by Jake in the Bridge Deck Lounge, followed by breakfast. Ian’s morning talk, titled Hot Rocks and Exploding Mountains, gave great insight into the volcanoes of this region. After a short break, I hosted an EL update, outlining the plans for tomorrow, including a briefing on our upcoming time in Yokohama, which got everyone excited for the extra time we’ll have there.

Next, Chrissy and Naomi led a delightful origami session, where we taught the guests how to make paper cranes, Japanese boxes, and frogs. We plan to continue making cranes to give to the next group of guests, who will donate them to the memorial at Hiroshima.

After lunch, Chrissy and Naomi put together a charming Japanese tea ceremony, featuring tastings of various teas we have on board. They also gave a talk about the history and significance of the tea ceremony. To add to the atmosphere, I brought along one of my silk kimonos from home and dressed Naomi up, even styling her hair like a geisha, which really set the scene beautifully.

Later, Reed gave his talk, Japan and the West: From Isolation to Globalization, which was well-received by the guests. At pre-dinner drinks, we had another art session and made even more paper cranes. After dinner, we screened The Wind Rises, a touching documentary that fit perfectly with the day’s theme.

Day 10: At Sea,

15 September 2024

On our final sea day, with much calmer weather, we enjoyed a wonderful conclusion to the voyage as we approached Japan. We started the day with a stretching session led by Jake, followed by breakfast. I then gave an overview of our two days in Yokohama, along with details on the sign-up sheets for excursions, which worked out well—there’s now a good balance of who’s doing what.

Later in the morning, Jake gave an engaging talk on the Japanese Zero fighter, which was well-received. After lunch, we had an exciting encounter with a super pod of melon-headed whales—hundreds of them breaking the surface, feeding on what was below. The ship did a swift turn to get closer, and the guests were thrilled to be out on the decks, watching them bowriding in such large numbers. It was a spectacular sight out here in the vast blue ocean.

Following that, Reed gave a fascinating talk on Nature and Society in Japan. After a short break, I briefed everyone on our day planned in Shimizu, along with an overview of Oshima. The guests are particularly excited about visiting an onsen where we can all remain together and clothed—it promises to be a fun experience!

The afternoon wrapped up with a sake and whiskey tasting, hosted by Mike. We sampled both warm and chilled sake, as well as a Japanese whiskey, which the guests thoroughly enjoyed. As the sun set, we played a light game of Scategories over drinks. To finish the day, after dinner, we screened the Joanna Lumley documentary on Japan, which was the perfect way to round off our final evening at sea.

Day 11: Shimizu, Japan

16 September 2024

We’ve finally arrived in Shimizu and successfully cleared into Japan. Our first stop was the Fujisan Hongu Sengen Shrine, where we would have had a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji, but it was hidden beneath a soft layer of cloud. Nonetheless, the early morning arrival offered a serene and atmospheric start to the day, with the iconic mountain just visible through the mist.

The shrine was fascinating, especially with the insight provided by our Japanese guides and Reed. Reed has been an incredible asset throughout this journey, not just for his deep knowledge of Japanese culture and history but for his natural way of engaging with everyone. His passion and people skills have added a lot to this trip, and I would highly recommend him for future expeditions. With his ability to dive into new regions, he would be a great fit for places like PNG, where his talents would shine.

After the shrine, we visited the Heritage Centre, where we explored exhibits across several levels. At the top, we were treated to stunning videos showcasing the creation of Mt. Fuji over millennia and the tectonic forces that drive Japan’s volcanic activity. We then returned to the ship for a quick lunch turnaround before heading to a tea plantation. The walk through the neatly arranged rows of tea plants was peaceful, and the tea tasting was a lovely addition to the day.

Our final visit was to the woodblock museum, which offered a quiet and serene experience for those who appreciate art. The surrounding grounds featured a traditional tea house and a koi-filled pond, which provided a picturesque close to the afternoon.

As the day progressed, we stayed on track with our updated itinerary. The team has done a great job adapting to the revised schedule, ensuring a smooth flow of activities and meals. It’s been a collaborative effort, and the flexibility has been a key to our success, especially with such a close-knit group. This experience is a great reminder of how important it is to keep everyone in the loop as plans evolve, and we’ve been able to do just that with seamless adjustments.

Day 12: Oshima

17 September 2024

We had absolutely fantastic weather for our visit to Oshima today—perfectly clear skies that offered incredible views. It was a real treat, especially considering the previous group had encountered cloud cover during their entire walk to the crater.

Our first bus departed early, taking a group of a dozen guests and crew to the starting point for the challenging but rewarding hike to the summit and the viewpoint at the crater. The effort paid off with stunning vistas throughout the walk, including a special glimpse of Mt. Fuji in the distance. A few guests decided to take on the second summit as well, which offered a different perspective with views to the other side before looping back. The entire group managed the ascent and descent within two hours, and spirits were high with a sense of accomplishment.

Meanwhile, another group opted for a more relaxed walk, taking in a 2-kilometre return trail from the same starting point. They were treated to views of the ashen side of the caldera and the lava flows from the 1986 eruption, which added to the geological interest. Both groups had a fantastic morning. The guide for the longer hike was particularly impressive, sharing his deep knowledge of volcanoes, having studied in Hawaii. For the shorter walk, Chrissy helped smooth out a minor hiccup with translation between the guide and Ian, ensuring everything flowed smoothly.

After a quick lunch onboard, we set off to explore Habu Port. On the way, we made a stop at the scenic cut-through cliffs to admire the layered rock formations—always a favourite with our guests. Habu Port was a quaint, sleepy spot, perfect for a peaceful stroll and a few snapshots before we headed back to the ship.

To cap off the day, we visited an onsen with a beautiful view overlooking the sea. It was a lovely, relaxing experience, and the guests really enjoyed the opportunity to share this traditional Japanese bath together. Some chose to stay and unwind near the harbour before we set sail once more. All in all, a perfect day exploring Oshima!

Day 13: Yokohama

18 September 2024

Today was one of the hottest days we’ve had on this trip, with temperatures reaching over 33°C and high humidity. Despite the heat, we set off on a long bus ride through the city. There were a few comments about the distance, but we made it clear that reaching destinations outside the main city requires at least an hour’s drive. After about 75 minutes, we arrived at the village, which was surrounded by the forested hills I had expected. The heat made the initial walk a bit challenging for some, but once we entered the forest, it was noticeably cooler and much more comfortable.

We spent about 30 minutes enjoying the beauty of the forest before walking a short five minutes to the brewery. There, the proprietor gave a brief introduction in the shade, and we had the opportunity to see the large vats where the sake is stored and fermented. A small, air-conditioned room was set up for us to watch a short film on the production process with English subtitles, which was a nice touch.

The sake tasting was held outside on the porch, offering a pleasant end to the tour, though the heat made it a little harder to fully relax. After the tasting, the onsen guests were picked up, and the rest of us headed to a cozy Izakaya for a delicious lunch.

The ride back was much faster, and once onboard, I briefed the guests on the plans for tomorrow in Yokohama. The afternoon offers a mix of activities: a walking tour led by the expedition team and Guest Lecturers, with assistance from our Japanese guides (even though we had given them the afternoon off), or free time for those who wanted to explore on their own. About 12 guests opted for the walking tour, while others ventured out independently.

In the evening, we gathered for the second episode of Joanna Lumley’s Japan, rounding off a hot but successful day.

Day 14: Yokohama

19 September 2024

Today has truly been a fantastic day! A few guests opted out of the tour, likely due to its duration, and spent their time exploring Yokohama instead. Being so close to everything here, it’s a perfect spot for independent adventures.

Our one-hour bus ride to the first stop went smoothly, with the guides providing interesting and humorous commentary along the way. We began at the Engaku-ji Temple, a vast and serene complex with beautiful grounds. Although the weather forecast predicted another hot day, we were lucky, and the guides did an excellent job explaining the site’s history. I decided we needed more time to fully appreciate the area, so I extended the hikers’ departure by 15 minutes and gave the non-hikers an extra 30 minutes, which was well received by everyone.

The hikers then set off for a wonderful walk through shaded tree-root paths, climbing to about 160m in elevation. Along the way, we passed by some beautiful shrines, including a “love shrine” where locals come to pray for love. On the descent, we stopped at a “money shrine,” where we could walk through a tunnel and wash our money to symbolically double its value. It was a fun and playful moment—some of us even rinsed our credit cards for luck!

Along the trail, we also had sweet encounters with local schoolchildren practicing their English with our guests. By the time we reached Komachi Street, we’d walked about 10km in total. The guests had a choice between exploring the street or continuing the hike, and both groups thoroughly enjoyed their time. The atmosphere was vibrant and full of joy, with everyone in high spirits on our last full day together.

Lunch was a highlight, with delicious Japanese food in a well-cooled restaurant—much appreciated after the morning activities. In the afternoon, we visited another impressive Buddhist shrine, which required climbing some steep steps but rewarded us with spectacular views. Our final stop was the stunning Sankei-en Garden, where we spent a relaxing hour strolling through the picturesque landscapes. We spotted quite a few birds, including grey herons, kingfishers, ducks, and sparrows. As storm clouds gathered, we wrapped up our walk just in time to head back to the ship before the rain began.

The evening was a perfect close to the voyage, with a lovely Captain’s drinks event. Both the Captain and I gave speeches, and there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie among the guests before we all say farewell tomorrow morning.